top of page
Shalaka Vazé
Mar 306 min read

Being Unapologetic About Your Identity is a Power Move

Updated: Mar 31




Leena Nair, CEO of Chanel


The immense responsibility of creating accessible fashion and beauty industries for marginalised communities, be that women, people of colour or those who identify as LGBTQ+, needs to be revisited. It first became visible in the wake of the murder of George Floyd and the subsequent movements towards racial equality in the US and Europe, but I think the issue deserves to remain front and center even 4 years later. We need to be able to rely on people in positions of power to create equal opportunities and enforce fair representation in both behind-the-scenes business roles and in marketing activities. However, fashion and beauty industries are dictated by the beauty standards of the time and often, these are defined and perpetuated by the people in power - people who can profit off of upholding the patriarchal and capitalist systems in place. So, the responsibility of change is often borne more heavily on the marginalised communities themselves. The pressure to succeed can often feel daunting when the odds seem stacked against you because of who you are, whether through systemic discrimination or by not conforming to beauty standards.

Although there are independent and conglomerate-backed women creative directors behind their namesake brands, it's been tremendously disappointing to see the decline of women or people of colour as creative directors, particularly evident in the Kering Group. It's so important to have people in marginalised groups at the top of these businesses, for at the very least three reasons. First, for the aforementioned ability to create opportunity for equity. Secondly, more ethical decisions behind how culture and beauty is represented or how sustainable practices are encouraged and upheld. Thirdly, the financial value and business sense we inherently bring to the table. Normalising a balanced C-suite across the industries would also influence investing practices into independent brands led by women and women of colour. In the first half of 2023, only 3.5% of investment was given to women-led businesses in the UK. But generally, women-led start-ups have a 35% higher return-on-investment than those led by men. Not investing in women is simply bad for business.





This article has a long introduction, but I want to set the context in place before motivating you to succeed or encourage change. You can do so no matter where in the fashion or beauty industry you are – either as an employee, a business owner or as a consumer. I see three ways we are succeeding through being unapologetic about our identity.

Firstly, the beauty and lifestyle brands founded by people of colour are finding success through building a brand identity tied closely to their personal identity.

This can be seen in haircare brands that are being built by those of South Asian descent. When I was younger, hair oiling and other Ayurvedic practices were a point of inner contention. The shame Desi girls were made to feel at having “dirty” or “smelly” hair, is not remembered by those who culturally appropriate the practice as if it's an original idea through the TikTok-famous “clean girl” trend. It could be left for girls of South Asian descent to feel like they are always being made to catch up with the trends of those more beautiful in terms of Eurocentric standards. However, as the global South Asian community and their spending power grows both in India and across the world, being able to see themselves represented and cared for is becoming of bigger importance for revenue than ever.


Diipa Büller-Khosla of IndéWild with her mother and baby, enjoying Champi, the Ayurvedic hair-oiling tradition.


One way South Asian brands have been succeeding in striking the right chord with the South Asian consumer is through showcasing the founder journey as part of their marketing method. It's been incredibly inspiring to watch the daily life and entrepreneurial lessons experienced by women of colour as they delve further into their unique connection to South Asian traditions. By doing so, they build their niche in the industry and take back control of these trends. There is a moral responsibility in representing how your culture is being recorded in world history. The experience of having hair oiled rigorously by your mother or grandmother is how the South Asian tradition of hair oiling should be remembered rather than how it gives you a 'clean girl look'. A brilliant example of this is IndéWild. Influencer-turned-entrepreneur Diipa Büller-Khosla honoured her mother’s identity of both science-based dermatology with Ayurvedic rituals to start a clean beauty brand targeting common beauty concerns through an uncommon method. Her entrepreneurial journey is documented on social media very transparently. IndéWild generated $3 million in seed funding round led by SoGal Venture and other angel investors. After their initial success across the South Asian diaspora, they are now looking for investment from their customers presumably to develop a stronger, community-driven brand, and have closer control on what products or product lines they could expand into.

Secondly, you can create change from within these industries.

However successful new brands can become, there are certain legacy brands that enjoy the bulk of spending and revenue in the fashion and beauty industries. Having women and people of colour in executive roles in companies that hold such market power is paramount to creating long-lasting change. In the fashion industry, the way I view that women of any kind and colour can make their way into the top executive rooms is either despite their differences, or through the complete acceptance and celebration of their own culture, traditions and most importantly, opinions. This is reflected in a few great examples. I encourage you to watch Leena Nair’s recent interview with BoF about her career before becoming the CEO of Chanel. Nair stresses on leaning into what she knew was her differentiator - starting with being the only woman in a predominantly male working environment in India at the beginning of her career. She also advised women to be unafraid of expressing their ambition rather than just hoping it can be translated into reality. Nair shows how committing to being a successful woman in lifestyle businesses is something she uses to build her power rather than to accept her identity as a limit or blocker. 

Sue Nabi, CEO of Coty


Another aspirational example is Sue Nabi, the CEO of beauty conglomerate Coty. The ex-L'Oréal executive is famous for pushing the L'Oréal Paris brand identity to even further success through both diversity efforts in campaigns and the creation of the iconic "We're Worth It" slogan. Her radical celebration of her own identity as a transgender woman of colour became the superpower behind not only wonderfully inclusive decisions and business values, but also those that defined new levels of success in sales from new target markets, all of which cemented her career. 

Emma Grede and Aurora James at the 2024 Fifteen Percent Pledge Benefit Gala


Other positive examples of leading industry wide change include the Fifteen Percent Pledge, founded by board member and designer Aurora James, and supported by chairwoman Emma Grede (the power behind many Kardashian-Jenner brands, including SKIMS). The non-profit contractually obliges all participating retailers to have 15% of shelf-space dedicated to stocking Black-owned brands - the percentage reflecting the Black population in the United States. They not only carry out audits of these retailers, but support retailers through providing their own database of Black-Owned brands.  They also help Black-owned brands through business development strategy and they have the numbers to prove their success. The Fifteen Percent Pledge has directed $14bn of revenue towards Black brands since their establishment in 2020. 

I am a woman of colour trying to make a career for myself in the fashion industry, without an extensive fashion background. Whenever I feel daunted about whether I am capable of making the change I want to see in the fashion industry with my own ambitions, I look to these examples as proof. This is how unapologetic individuality and self-celebration can be a force for change both creatively and as smart business strategy. 

Thirdly, you can absolutely make a difference as a consumer.

Maybe you've read this article and the particular struggles you face in your career or industry are different. But chances are you love and spend on fashion and beauty, and you want to encourage an equitable future in this industry too. The power you hold is in how you spend or invest your money, or a combination of both. This is something I have been very aware of recently. How I want to spend my money on style is heavily-influenced by my desire to express more of my British Indian roots, since living in France. It is defined by feeling responsible for improving sustainability and lowering exploitation present in fashion and beauty industries. I will find joy in wearing jewellery and fashion that represent my love for Indian art and culture, invest in vintage clothes that represent a timeless beauty both in quality and style and choose to spend my disposable income or actually invest in brands that care about their suppliers, artisans and target audience.

It's not just how money represents the force for change towards a more ethical industry. I also feel a sense of individuality and self-acceptance that comes with expressing myself in a way that feels so deeply personal. That feeling is so much more beautiful than trying to keep up with expensive or mindless trends that keep me feeling one step behind the beauty standard, in exchange for my money. Your money is your vote in this world.


Photo Credits

1 Granary's picture of Kering's Creative Directors after the announcement of Sarah Burton's replacement at Alexander McQueen, Sean McGirr - https://www.instagram.com/p/CzJjTqFMPKK/

Diipa Büller-Khosla and family - https://www.instagram.com/p/CsOL4KSSWJE/

Comments

bottom of page